FAQs
1. How long has the Fan Man been in business?
The Fan Man was established in 2001 by Mark A. Romano, Jr. Working alongside his father in construction and roofing Mark was made aware of the many benefits proper attic ventilation offers. He realized this was a vital but often overlooked aspect of construction and so with this in mind he formed The Fan Man to address these specific issues.
2.What accreditations and licensing does The Fan Man hold?
Mark Romano is a licensed general contractor in NC #69409. He also holds a NC electrical license #28132-SP-SFD. Mark is also a business graduate from ECU.
The Fan Man carries workers compensation, general liability, and completed operations insurance. The Fan Man has been awarded the Angies List Super Service Award in Raleigh and Charlotte for 2010 and 2011.
3. What type of warranty does the Fan Man provide?
Every aspect of any product installed through the Fan Man is covered by a non-transferrable lifetime warranty. This includes parts and labor. Our lifetime warranty sets us apart from other competitors. We strive to provide the best in customer service and this has been the key to our success over the last 11 years. We are proud to have received numerous accolades in the community for exceptional service and our lifetime warranty is a key aspect of our diligent customer service. See the testimonials page for customer reviews.
4. What is the ideal temperature for an attic?
A good rule of thumb is 100 degrees or less. A poorly ventilated attic can have temperatures that reach above 160 degrees. Even an attic with a convection fed system (ridge and soffit vents) can reach between 140 and 150 degrees. When an attic temperature gets above 100 degrees the heat is drawn toward the living space through the insulation and has a detrimental effect on the air handler and duct work in the attic. A powerful ventilation system along with the proper intake air is capable of keeping your attic around 100 degrees on a 90 degree day.
5. Why is the upstairs harder to cool than the downstairs?
Typically the HVAC air handler and ductwork for the upper floor(s) is located in the attic. The heat trapped in the attic is being absorbed into the duct work and the air handler. By the time the cold air is produced in the metal air handler and the air runs through the ductwork it can be heated between 8 and 20 degrees because of the extremely hot air in the attic. When the temperature in the attic is lowered the air conditioning unit runs more efficiently to produce cooler air.
6. How many fans do I need?
This depends on several factors. The total square footage of the attic space along with the pitch of the roof determines the volume of air in the attic. The volume of air, along with the shape of the attic determines how many fans you need. Typically one fan will ventilate a maximum of 1400 to 2000 sq. ft depending on the pitch of the roof.
7. What if I already have a ridge vent?
To achieve proper air flow we will close in a section of the ridge vent in close proximity to where the fan will be installed. This will only allow shaded air to be pulled evenly across the soffit vents and have the maximum cooling effect on the attic space. If this wasn't done, hot air would be drawn in through the ridge and recirculated through the fan. This can cause the attic temperature to climb an extra 15-20 degrees.
8. How much can I save in Cooling Costs?
Several factors will determine the amount saved on your cooling costs. The placement of the air handler and ductwork is a major factor. If they are located in your attic and absorbing the heat trapped in your attic space the savings on your energy bill will be greater than if your air handler is located somewhere else. It also depends on the temperature you set the thermostat as well as the age of your AC unit. In most cases our customers save between 20 and 30% of what it costs to cool their home. For customers with gas heat you can easily determine your cooling costs by deducting your winter electric bill from your summer electric bill. Considering what you save in cooling costs this system will pay for itself in 2-4 yrs. If you factor in other benefits such as a more efficient air handler and longer roof shingle life then your pay off is much sooner.
9. How much power do your fans consume?
During the peak summer, fans typically run 12 hours a day. You can expect a powered fan to cost just over $4/month which is about .11/kwh. This equates to about the same amount of energy as two 60 watt light bulbs. Our power fans draw 1 amp of electricity while in use. The average air handler and condensing unit for your AC will draw between 18 and 20 amps. Far less energy is used when running the fans than when trying to cool a home with an overheated attic.
Solar attic fans run off the suns energy and therefore consume no energy when in use.
10. Is it true that proper attic ventilation can make my roof last longer?
Yes. A poorly ventilated attic can cut the life of your roof in half. A 40 year roof for example can very easily last only twenty years if it is exposed to the heat of the sun along with 150 degree temperatures in the attic. This is essentially cooking your roof from both sides.
11. Why do I see streaks on relatively new roofs?
When a shingle is overheated "burn-off" occurs. This occurs when a shingle over heats and the top layer breaks loose and falls off. The top layer of the shingle has a protective coating which prevents algae build-up. When that coating comes off mold and fungus can grow on your roof. When the attic is kept at a cooler temperature the "burn-off" effect is minimized. This in turn keeps your roof looking better longer and the rate of deterioration is much slower
12. How often will the fan run?
If you are running your AC there is a good chance that your attic fan will be running at some point in the day. On a sunny 65 degree day your attic will reach 100 degrees so your fan will be running periodically throughout the day. During the summer in the south your ventilation system will turn on early and operate throughout the day. When your fan is running it is saving you money on your air conditioning.
13. Are the fans thermostatically controlled?
Yes. Each fan runs automatically and is connected to its own thermostat. We set the thermostat at 95 degrees so when the attic reaches 95 degrees the fan turns on and runs until the attic temperature reaches 85 degrees. There is also a switch installed with the fan so that it can be turned off manually should the need occur.
14. Do the fans make a lot of noise?
This is one key aspect that sets the Fan Man apart from other companies. Our installation process has been refined to ensure that each fan will run quietly and smoothly. First, galvanized screws are used to secure the fan - not roofing nails. We do this because over time nails will become loose. On the other hand screws secure the fan to the roof. Secondly, the fan is balanced to minimize noise and vibration. These steps ensure a balanced fan which runs smoothly and quietly.
15. I understand you offer a solar and electric fan option, how do I know which is the best application for my home or business?
This has become a very popular question in recent years. Solar fans seem to make perfect sense; no electrical usage, no wiring, and best of all tax credits. Solar fans can be a great option, but only in limited circumstances. The problem with solar fans when compared to its electric counterpart is the extreme inconsistency with which it moves air. Conditions have to be perfect for a solar fan to achieve the same amount of air flow you get with an electric fan. This means you must have direct sun, with no cloud cover or shading, and a south facing roof. A lot of times these factors do not exist and therefore you need additional solar fans to make up for the inadequacies created by these conditions. In effect you end up spending more money (even with the tax credits) because you have to buy a larger solar system to gain the same effect of a smaller electric fan system. Customers have to keep in mind that by dropping the attic temperature 40-50 degrees you stand to save much more money than eliminating the power usage of a 120 watt fan.
16. There is so much varying information on the internet with regards to proper radiant barrier application. What does the Fan Man recommend?
We look at radiant barrier installation a little differently because of our emphasis on attic ventilation. When the radiant barrier is installed on the underside of the roof there is excess heat exposure to the shingles and this will shorten the life span of your shingle. Another problem with this installation technique is the loss of heat in the winter as the heat from your home will be allowed to escape to the roof.
By installing radiant barrier over the insulation we accomplish several things:
- trap heat inside the attic and prevent it from entering your home in the summer
- keep cold attic air from entering your living space in the winter
- extend the life of the roof shingles by eliminating the possibility of trapped air between the radiant guard and the rafters.
This application will only work with proper attic ventilation in place first, but with proper attic ventilation the attic can be kept around 100 degrees and this will maximize the effectiveness of the radiant barrier and in turn offer you the benefits of a more comfortable home, less usage on your air handler, and extended life on your shingle.
17. What size skylight should I use for my home or office?
We offer two sizes. A 10" skylight will illuminate 100 sq ft. and a 13" skylight will brighten 300-400 sq ft.
18. What type of tax credits and incentives are available for the services/products you provide?
Currently for 2012, the states of NC and GA are extending a 35% tax credit for solar fans. There is also a federal tax credit of 30% for these items. For more information on these tax credits and more visit www.dsireusa.org. Often times your local power company will offer some incentive for proper insulation. Check with your local power company for information on these incentives.